Pilsner Urquell Brewery Tour

If you are an astute reader you would have noticed that I left Saturday out of my post on Prague but luckily I did not leave it out of my weekend! Saturday morning started off with a bang as we awoke that morning to the raucous laughter of the traditional German shower that was taking place in the bathroom across the hall. Apparently this is a tradition where you and your 15 closest friends all jump in the bathroom yelling, laughing and spraying down everything in sight. While I was just a casual listener I hope to someday join in on the fun.

Over breakfast we made our plans for the day which included catching a train to the little town of Pilsen for a tour of the Pilsner Urquell brewery. Pilsen is the town that gives the name Pilsner to the beer and Pilsner Urquell is the original Pilsner Lager. The train station in Prague is a masterpiece of industry with high metal arches and a glass roof typical of many such structures. Meredith, Mary, Sam and myself found a few seats in a nice little cabin and awaited our journey through the Czech countryside. There was light snow falling on the green hills for most of the day. The views of the little towns and the river were magnificent as we rolled along the tracks.



During the ride the porter came to collect our tickets and found that we had accidentally only bought two tickets WHOOPS!! Luckily he had a ticket machine dangling by his side and after a few stern words and the exchange of a few hundred crowns we were back in our seats and not on our butts in the middle of no where. As we pulled into the station in Pilsen I felt as if I accidentally boarded the train for communist Russia. The town is skirted by large industrial plants and there are probably fifteen tracks outside of the station. We got off the train and walked into the grand entrance of the station. It was very tall and imposing with murals and statues of working men and women everywhere. It was quite an experience that was only enhanced by the number of loudspeakers shouting orders both inside the station and out on the street. I could definitely still feel the presence of the soviet big brother looming overhead.





We had a short walk to the brewery which stood in stark contrast to the train station and was actually very pretty. There is an ornate gate that opens onto the brewery grounds where there is a large water tower which is a remake of a Dutch lighthouse.








The tour began with a little schpiel by our guide Jan (Yahn) and then it was off to the beer bus and the bottling plant. This does not sound like the most fun thing in the world but it was actually pretty amazing. The amount of bottles moving through the plant is astounding and their motion is mesmerizing. Leaving the bottling plant we were lead to the old factory where we learned more about the history of the brand and the processes involved in brewing. The tour was very well done and felt at times like we were in Charlie and the Chocolate factory. There was a giant glass elevator, a revolving room, and the huge brewing room filled with what look like giant Hersey kisses.







After we toured the brewing facilities Jan took us down to the cellar where the beer is fermented. There are a staggering 60 miles of tunnels beneath the facility where all the beer was kept before modern refrigeration. The tunnels are mostly empty now but they do keep some of the barrels down in the cellar and actually still use the tunnels for some processes involving the wort. The tour ended like all should with a delicious beer straight from the barrel. It was unpasteurized and pristine leaving me only to complain about its small size.









After the tour we went to eat at what is apparently the largest restaurant in the country which is located in one of the old wings of the cellar system. This is a pretty laughable title because it couldn't have been much bigger than a typical Aplebee's. We left the brewery and headed back to the train encountering no ticket problems and making it back to Prague safe and sound. Sam and Meredith then took me to a little cafe down the street from the hostel. We had a delightful conversation about Christmas songs and actually even had Sam the Grinch smiling and singing a little bit. I guess anything is possible in a city as amazing as Prague.

Prague!!!

Leaving Greece was quite an adventure. It took six hours to get from my house to the airport. This turned out to be lucky because if it had taken five minutes longer I would have missed the flight all together which would have left me with one downbeat story. Man I am glad I made it!

I arrived in Prague and was met by the two beautiful and familiar faces of Sam and Meredith. A rush of joy came over me and I couldn't stop smiling for three whole days. It is amazing what a familiar face will do for you after being away for a few months. They took me straight to a little restaurant called the meat emporium where we had baby back ribs, hot wings, and a waiter that brought a huge delicious beer every time we gave him the thumbs up. Prague was definitely my kind of town. After dinner we went to the hostel where I was greeted by more NC State folks and feelings of familiarity. I dropped off my stuff and got ready for a night on the town.

Sam, Meredith, and Mary took me to one of their favorite bars. It was down in a basement with arched brick walls like a wine cellar. There were great drink specials and people who were actually dancing! This place was really pumping and I was more than happy to spend the whole night there. Then we heard that the other State found an 80's party so we decided to head over and check it out because there is nothing like going to your favorite theme party in one of the world's greatest cities. The highlight of the night was seeing a club full of Czechs interpretive dancing to the songs from Grease.





Sunday was spent sightseeing and wearing my camera battery out. Prague is just like the setting of a fairy tale. The city is incredibly beautifully and was accentuated by the freshly fallen snow. The buildings are all ornate with statues on their corners or a golden spire on top. There are trolleys that roll along the cobblestone streets and little pubs on every block. We went first to the central square and climbed up the clock tower. The view from the top was incredible, with the terracotta roofs covered in snow stretching far out into the distance.







From the square we wound our way through the picturesque streets crossing over the river to ride the funicular and visit the castle. On the walk Sam pointed out many public art pieces including a huge mobius strip mural by famous graffiti artist BLU. We reached the funicular and as we rode up the hill to the castle we got to watch the kids playing in the first snow of the year. At the top of the hill there is a mini Eiffel tower which was just screaming to be climbed. From the top you could see the entire city. Prague combines the beauty of the old architecture in the center with bunker like apartments left from the cold war creating a very interesting contrast.

At this point Mary and Meredith had to go to studio leaving Sam and I on our own and on the brink of participating in the best experience of the weekend. As we began our trek down the hill from the tower to the castle we noticed that the snow had been packed down into a sheet of ice and that the hill we had to descend had no railings. About five German guys Sam and myself all realized that there was no way we were going to make it to the bottom without falling and started to laugh in anticipation of the America's Funniest Home Videos highlight reel that was about to unfold. Two of the other guys just went for it, and started off full speed down the hill. After many spins and a whole bunch of pointing and laughing one of the guys landed flat on his butt. He got up with a big grin on his face because he knew he would still get to watch the show as we had yet to make the journey down. It was a great experience to just laugh and be laughed at by total strangers all in good fun. It must have taken us 15 minutes to get down the hill and luckily there were no injuries and only one more butt slide.





The castle was really amazing with stone faced guards posted at the gates. The architecture was intimidating, making you feel very small as soon as you entered. Inside the second square is an ornate cathedral covered in gargoyles with huge icicles dangling from their mouths. Inside the cathedral was truly incredible with huge stained glass windows and golden relics everywhere. This cathedral was absolutely enormous and actually holds the worlds largest rose window. It was one of the most awe inspiring structures I have ever been inside and know that cathedrals will always be on the itinerary for future trips.








We had dinner that night in a restaurant that was down in an old wine cellar. The table was made of large wooden planks and there were candles dripping wax down the brick walls. I had pork tenderloin with asparagus, mashed potatoes, and some great wine. Prague is an amazing city that both dwarfs you and draws you in. Somehow the soviet style of the TV tower and metro system fit really well with the cobblestone streets. The people are all very nice making the little cafes and pubs feel like home. In Prague I could finally see why so many people find Europe so enchanting. This trip came at a perfect time for me and I am so happy that I chose to come over here and study.

Ain't No Party Like a Mustache Party!!!!

Sometimes when faced with the daunting task of endless days of computer programming and strikes that occur at random times one needs a little extra strength. Desperate times call for desperate measures and those of us in the MEEES program have tapped into the ancient and tribal power of the group mustache. While normally we all look amazing I think the growth of our facial hair has really added increased our looks, in both beauty and quantity of jaw dropping stares.



Last night we decided it was time to unchain our staches from the safety of the university and show them to the world. Like most nights we started with a little get together in Gary's apartment. This tradition began as a way to pass the time from dinner until about 12 which is the earliest anyone ever goes out in Greece. Upon arrival I was greeted by the most beautiful site I have seen since my arrival in Greece, two ladies with perfectly trimmed handlebar mustaches! I could tell this was going to be a good night. We hung out for a while telling jokes, most of which got lost in translation and added to the laughter. Then it was off to the marble sidewalks of downtown Patra. Most of the bars in Patra are crammed into little alleys making for a really cool atmosphere. There is always dance music playing which is mostly a mix of Greek and American pop. We all had a great time dancing around, not smoking, and smiling, which was in great contrast to the always cool and straight faced Greeks. When the bar closed we headed to get what I have come to believe is the best late night snack ever invented the pork gyro! I fell asleep that night with a full belly and a smile on my face that I know was only accentuated by my mustachstic facial hair.

Scabs and Secret Classes

Despite the continued occupation of the engineering building our professor called for a secret class to meet on Wednesday morning. He told us how to sneak into the building and which room to go to. Everything was arranged just as he said, leading me at first to believe that he must have a contact on the inside. We were the MEEES students with an insatiable appetite for knowledge, who would risk their lives for the opportunity to go to one structural dynamics class. No matter how hard I tried to make it seem like we were living in a movie the reality of the situation was much more bland. Apparently meeting for class during a strike is not a rare occurrence as the strike is fueled more by apathy than the passion to fight. It is more like everyone just agrees not to come to class. Most of the doors are barricaded but not all and there are only about four people "guarding" the building. We had a full class with no problems and all of the professors were in their offices just like any other day. The police are not allowed on the campus so there is really nothing to stop even the weakest of strike attempts. This week we only had two classes and next week looks to be very similar. We have a holiday on Monday and the rumor is that their will be a strike next Thursday and Friday. I wish we weren't missing so much class because it is getting pretty late in the semester and I am worried that we won't get credit for the classes. Right now these worries are not weighing on me very much as I am happy that we will not have class on Friday as I will be leaving in the morning for Prague

The design school at NC State has a study abroad program in Prague and I am very excited to see my friends there. Meredith, Sam, Mary, and the other NC State kids have promised me a great time and I look forward to the big beers and hearty food.

We Don't Need No Stinking Badges!!!

Who needs scheduled holidays when you can make your own? This is the attitude of the Greeks. Today I woke up and found this little message in my email "I would like to inform you that the building of the Dept of Civil Engineering has been taken over by the students. It will be under occupation from today, 11-11-2008 until 13-11-2008." So no class this week! Woohooo!!!! Apparently this happens pretty regularly and sometimes lasts for months at a time. This particular strike is in response to the government debate over the allowance of private universities. Currently all universities in Greece are public and the students would like to keep it this way. They believe that private universities will invite corruption devaluing the worth of a degree from all Greek institutions. They feel that some people will simply buy their degree. Enrique and I were curious about this occupation/strike so we walked up to the school to see what was going on.

Just as we suspected nothing was different. The campus was as deserted as it always is, there were no banners or marches or anything. We walked up to the building and tried to get in only to find all of the doors had been barricaded by chairs or broomsticks. We finally found an open door and went inside. We walked around the halls and only found couple of girls in the lobby listening to music and playing cards. The girls said something to us as we passed and even though I had know idea what words they used I knew they were telling us to leave. Upon a peaceful exit we went back to our apartment to wait for day two of the occupation or at least until next Tuesday when classes resume. I guess this is just another of the many twists and turns that any day can take in Greece.

Patra Fortress

Like so many things in Greece our scholarship money is now 6 weeks late and we are totally broke. However this has not stopped us from taking advantage of the abundance of free time that the less than rigorous Greek class schedule affords us. We heard from the girls that we should go to the fortress and take in the best views in Patra. Since we can really only go as far as the local bus will take us, last weekend Enrique and I decided to take their advice and went into Patra to take in some of the local sights.

After riding the bus downtown we scaled the 14 flights of steps up to the fortress and were praying that the site would be worth the effort. Walking through the ancient gates we knew that it was. Like the site at Olympia you could walk all around the grounds and climb up on to the walls of the fortress. The interior was much larger than I had expected and basically just a field surrounded by walls. The grounds were very nice with the main fortress towering over the citrus and olive groves. The fortress had high walls and was protected by a deep moat. We went into the fortress and climbed all the way to the top. From there we could see all of Patra sprawled out beneath us and the large ships resting in the blue water of the port.









Leaving the fortress we went to the Roman Odeon just a few blocks away. The theater is not just a historic site as the city has restored it and still uses it today. The theater is open air and all the seats are made of marble. It is pretty small in scale but impressive none the less.