Vienna: Day Two

With our batteries fully recharged after some big time, big boy, naps we were ready to partake in all Vienna had to offer on a Saturday night. We began by meeting up with Molly and her friends Alex and Max for dinner, indulging ourselves with huge Austrian portions of beer and schnitzel. After we ate we went over to a Christmas party hosted by Alice another one of Molly's friends from University. We were greeted at the door by a delightful German guy named Matias who wore reindeer antlers on his head and a mischievous smile on his face. The party was in full swing and we were immediately ushered into the kitchen and offered drinks and sauerkraut. I don't know what I enjoyed more their unbridled enthusiasm or showers complete with speakers blaring techno music but with that one two punch who really cares? YA!!! After the party it was off to the club. We hopped in a taxi and headed to the Sky Kitchen which must translate well in German because it doesn't make any sense in English. The club is in a building that is going to be renovated and the owners decided to turn the top floor into a temporary club. We spent the night clothed in lasers and fog, dancing our little hearts out. Our nap made us strong but without the extra power of a mustache we were no match for the energy of the Austrians and had to retire at an early 4 am.







The day began with a quick brunch in route to Schonbrunn palace, the summer home of the Hofburg's. In front of the palace was a giant Christmas tree and market. The yellow exterior glowed in the morning sun creating a welcoming atmosphere. The palace is situated on a large tract of land surrounded by huge gardens and lawns. It was absolutely amazing despite the fact it was winter and the gardens had no roses and the statues were covered to protect them from the weather. I can only imagine its beauty during the summer and am already making plans to go back again. The extensive grounds offered plentiful space for walking and jogging and seemed to be one of the Viennese's favorite places for recreation. In the rear of the palace, at the top of a green grassy hill sits what was the Hofsburg's dining room. Inside the ornate building there is a restaurant which provided the perfect place to stop for a coffee after the exhausting walk up the hill. After coffee, a fit of crazy Sunday fever took hold and we had a jolly time imitating the fantastic German accent. Highlighting this goofy period, and perhaps adding to the hilarity were the mermen and merhorse statues as well as David's dazzling demonstration of pure levitation.











After dropping Molly off for a power nap and studying, David and I decided to get a feel for just how Christmas-crazy Vienna really is. We made our way through streets festively decorated and packed with people from all over Europe shopping at the plethora of Christmas markets for which the city is known. The largest of these markets is in front of the Rathaus which was slammed with shoppers on this particular evening. During our walk around the market, I couldn't help but be reminded of the State Fair with people eating, drinking, snapping pictures, and other assorted merriment. The Rathaus was a beautiful sight at night with its exterior totally lit up and decorated like an advent calendar for all to see.








After yet another crucial nap and shower, we met up with Molly, Max, Alex, and a few of Enrique's friends for dinner at the same place that we tried Gluwein on the first night. Dinner was great and was only surpassed by the company which made for a wonderful evening. We ended the night with a few drinks and reflection on the wonderful time that we had in Vienna.

Vienna: The First 24 Hours

Kent again decided to employ my services as guest columnist to reveal to you the magical time myself, Kent, and Enrique spent last weekend in Vienna, Austria. The trip to the Athens airport was for the most part long and unremarkable. It was, however, a good opportunity to see the beautiful Korinthiakos Kolpos (Gulf of Korinth). Everything else went very smoothly and we arrived in Vienna around 7:00 pm. Cold air greeted us as we landed in the city and it was refreshing to experience weather that felt a little more like Christmas.

(David was busy planning a side trip to the ancient site at Delphi and to the monasteries in Meteora and was only able to complete this short introduction, but what an introduction it is!)

After a bus ride and a brisk walk we arrived at our address 10 Mythengasse. The name of the hostel was Believe it or Not and we quickly realized why it was named as such. The "street" it was on was actually a dimly lit alley and there was nothing other than the number 10 painted above the foreboding doors. The entryway greeted us with holes in the walls and plaster falling from the ceiling. We went up one flight of steps and to the end of another completely empty hallway where we finally found our hostel. The place was small but extremely clean and very nice, quite a difference from the exterior.

In a flash of technology and texting I got in contact with my good friend Molly and we were off for our first night in Vienna. We went out to dinner and visited a little Christmas market near Molly's apartment. There we met up with some of Molly's friends in town and shared mugs of Gluvein (probably spelled this wrong). Gluvein is a warm spiced wine that tastes a lot like cider and is delicious. We ended the night early so we could get a head start on the sightseeing and urban hiking the next day would bring.



Waking up at 9 was easy because the two girls who shared the room with David and I decided to start testing out the warranty on their luggage. I will say I was impressed at the durability of their bags because starting at 8 it was non stop zipping and tossing. Enrique David and myself met up with Molly our lovely tour guide who took us to the Modern Art museum for breakfast. From there we set off on a full day of ooos and ahhhs as so many of the historical buildings are right beside each other.

We walked through the Museum quarter on our way to the Hofburg palace. The museums are beautifully ornate with domes on top and a Christmas market in between. The market winds around a large statue and then arrives at the palace. The stone entryway is intimidating with large wooden doors towering over the narrow street. Once through the gates I felt engulfed by the size and brilliance of the palace. There are statues everywhere, on the roof line, recessed into walls and at the center of the large monuments that dot the grounds. I could not believe my eyes or my ears when Molly told me that her school's library is actually housed in the palace not too far from the wing where the president lives, Incredible! We walked out of the palace and into a bustling square with horse drawn carriages and Christmas lights. I had to stop for a moment to let it all soak in. I was having a sensory overload and it was only 11:00! After a few snapshots we were off in route to our first cup of Viennese coffee.









Unfortunately for Molly, who was tired, cold, and in need of some coffee, Enrique David and myself couldn't help but drag our feet as we lumbered along in awe of each building we passed. The cafe we went to is actually the place where Molly's parents met, and while none of us made any love connections we did enjoy our coffee and strudel. With a renewed vigor we walked out of the cafe and headed across the square to St. Stephens Cathedral.





I don't think I can adequately describe how beautiful this cathedral is so I attached some pictures that will hopefully do it more justice. Construction on the cathedral began in the 1200s and was finished only recently. Evidence of its lengthy history can be seen in the windows as they are made from many lightly colored stained glass panels rather than large picture windows. The interior is beautiful with many paintings, sculptures, and large stone arches. In addition to its beauty St. Stephens offers two other attractions, a ride to the top of a steeple and a tour of the crypt.



The view of Vienna from the top of the steeple was amazing. You could look down onto the historic buildings of the downtown and out at two space needles and other modern buildings in the newer sections of the city. Despite my fear of heights I have come to cement my first travel rule which is if you see something tall try everything you can to get to the top. After admiring the city and enjoying the sunshine we decided it was time for something a little less pleasant and went down to take the tour of the crypt.





The first chamber in the crypt is used for the burial of high ranking church officials with its most recent resident admitted only 3 years ago. Then we walked into the chamber directly beneath the main alter where the Hofburgs were buried. After pointing to the royal graves our tour guide informed us that lining the hall in which we were standing were urns filled with the organs removed during the burial process. After that unsettling revelation the tour took us further into the darker more cavernous areas of the crypt reserved for the common man. As we walked through the dank passages we were informed that there were more than 13,000 bodies buried in the crypt including a few thousand that died of Bubonic plague. These are not the best things to have in your mind as you walk past the vaults piled high with bones. Like the young children on our tour I was ready to get out of that dungeon the moment I stepped inside. It was really an incredible experience that I am glad I had but unlike the steeple I am in no rush to go back again.



Nothing works up an appetite like a visit to an ancient crypt so we headed directly to the nearest Christmas market. There we found exactly what we were looking for in a kiosk with meat hanging from the rafters and a four piece band, including (mom get excited) an accordion and banjo. We enjoyed our meal to the sound of the song from National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation, mali kali ki maka (my best attempt at Hawaiian spelling) it was truly magical.



On our way back to the hostel we were fortunate enough to walk past the parliament building just as the sun was setting. The building is covered in gold leaf and statues and fits in perfectly with its stately surroundings.



As the sun faded we realized we were feeling worn down after such a big day so we returned to our hostel to play a game that has been passed down through many generations of Dickens. You begin by choosing up sides, then you take naps, and ... the scoring system is pretty complicated so I guess I will have to explain it in subsequent posts. I will say however, that at that moment I was in the napping zone much like Dad with a cup of coffee perched on his belly and a full afternoon of yard work ahead of him!

Riots, Strikes, & Cigarettes-Oh My!!!

Kent gave me the honor of giving all the faithful readers out there a little update on the situation in Greece. Many of you are aware of the Athen's Police Officer's fatal shooting that has sparked riots that have spread across the country for the past five days. The groups have ranged in size from a hundred in the smaller cities and towns such as our own (Patra), up to thousands like the group that organized at the boy's funeral on Tuesday in Athens. No worries, however, we have remained safe and out of harm's way. In fact, if it weren't for the news, we would have no idea the riots were going on at all!

It seems that small concentrated groups of anarchists, named the "known unknowns," composed mostly of high school and college students, are using the boy's death as an excuse to express their frustration at the unpopular ruling government and the direction the country is going in. They have burned buildings and cars and have ground business to a halt in urban areas. Complicating the situation is a planned general strike to protest the ailing pension plans of government employees. As a result, Kent will have no class all this week and it has been very difficult to travel and visit areas within the country.

It is very interesting to experience this situation. The government seems unable or unwilling to do anything about the riots and it seems as if most of the protesters are just participating because they are bored. Most of the Greeks seem apathetic to the whole situation, assuming that it will all die down soon. In stark contrast, the Chinese students in Kent's group are appalled at the government's lack of control over the situation. What a clash of worldviews we have here! I believe that it perhaps stems from the Greek's passion for burning objects, especially cigarettes. It seems unlikely that the Greeks, the most smoking people in the world, could riot and protest without stopping for a coffee and cigarette every once in a while. Maybe the government should set up free coffee stands to quell their anger?

But we want everyone not to worry. We are safe and have not contemplated throwing any firebombs with Kent's fellow students. From Patra, this is guest columnist David Boaz saying good night.Riot truck parked in front of the police station with roof mounted fire hoses.Rioters' weapon of choice.remnants of a Molatov cocktail (top right) thrown through a shop windowVigilantes!!!

Athens

When I returned to Patra from Athens I realized that I was too quick in separating Greece from other European countries. I saw that the lack of attractions in Patra is not due to any lacking in the Greek culture but more in the fact that it is a relatively small city. In Athens I felt all of the awe and wonder I had experienced in Prague. Athens is a bustling metropolis filled with amazing historic monuments and a vibrant colorful culture.

I could tell I was going to like Athens the moment I stepped into the metro station. The whole system is squeaky clean and brand new. The stations are beautiful with a mix of modern design and exposed ruins that line the walls which were unearthed during construction. Our hostel was right in the center of town and only one block from the Acropolis metro station. That night Enrique and I walked all around downtown. Amid the hustle and bustle of Christmas shopping Athenians in crowded streets there are countless tiny old churches. These churches are tucked away in little squares throughout the city, and offer great contrast to the blinking lights and commercialism surrounding them. We headed back to the room fairly early so that we could get a good night's sleep for the day ahead. We stayed in a room on the very top floor and I could actually see the acropolis while lying in my bed. The Parthenon's golden glow is an incredible sight just before you close your eyes and fall asleep.





We woke up early and caught the train to the airport to pick up my good friend Mr. David Boaz, who will be spending the next couple of weeks with me. At first glance I could tell David had done his homework on Greek fashion as he was already sporting RayBans and a scruffy beard. With the entire trio assembled it was off to Athens to begin our sightseeing adventures. The weather was not really cooperating as it was drizzling and cloudy all day but we made the most of it. We started in the Plaka, one of the downtown neighborhoods, with a walk through the many shops and cafes. We stopped at one little restaurant for lunch where David ordered rabbit for his first Greek meal. The food was delicious and all oil with no veggies just like we Greeks like it! The rain subsided just enough for us to see the changing of the guard in Syntagma square outside of the tomb of the unknown soldier in front of the parliament building. The guards were clothed in traditional Greek dress with stern unshakable expressions.







Next we walked to the national gardens which were like many things in Greece beautiful in their own special way. The gardens were filled with mist from the earlier rain and many orange trees and tropical plants. The most unique feature of the garden was the animal pens that had quite the variety of donkeys, chickens, rabbits, and goats. I just don't understand how the same people who won't lift their eyes to the Parthenon can be so impressed by chickens that they would put them on display in the national garden.



After that it was back home for a quick nap then dinner and then a trip out on the town. For a glimpse into the nightlife we went to the Gazi district of Athens which used to be an industrial center but is now filled with bars and clubs. The city converted one of the large warehouses into a concert venue where there was live music playing that night. The streets and bars were packed giving Gazi the perfect Saturday night atmosphere.

We woke up Sunday to bright sunshine, a perfectly blue sky, and one goal, to go to the Arcropolis. The awful weather on Saturday was a blessing in disguise because on Sundays it is free to tour the Acropolis. The path to the Acropolis winds up its southern slopes passing a large theater still in use today and offering great views of the Parthenon perched high above. To enter the Parthenon you walk up marble steps and through the main gate built some 2500 years ago. Emerging from the gates you are struck with the shear size and magnificence of the Parthenon. It is absolutely huge and definitely something that must be experienced up close in order to fully appreciate it. The whole site is perched on a mesa of solid stone. It is completely flat and by far the tallest area around. In addition to the wonder of the ancient temples the views of the city are incredible.












The walk down from the acropolis is filled with other ruins and really shows how vibrant this ancient city must have been. There is a reconstruction of the Roman library and also the best preserved temple in Greece. The temple of Phaestus (I think) is still fully intact including the roof despite thousands of years and many earthquakes, amazing!





I ended the Athenian tour buying some trinkets from the little shops in the Plaka and taking my last few looks at the Parthenon. Athens truly is a remarkable city with so much history and character to offer. Sorry for any typos or runon sentences, I finished this entry in the airport in Athens and didn't get a chance to proof read. Isn't technology amazing?!